Everything old is new again at Cheap Monday, the latest high-street retailer to try to take the ecological sting out of “fast fashion.” To ring in October, the Swedish brand has launched “C/O Cheap Monday,” a 500-piece capsule collection derived from castoff clothing and other recycled textiles, many of which originated from bins that appeared in its Copenhagen, London, Paris, Shenyang, and Beijing stores this past spring. Available in unisex styles and sizes, the line offers one-of-a-kind “tight” jeans, bomber jackets, T-shirts, and sweaters that have been taken apart, remixed, and refashioned at the H&M subsidiary’s Stockholm headquarters to create “rough, bold and individual” looks. “The design process of this limited edition collection makes every piece completely unique in its material, shape and fit,” the company said.
Photo by Milada Vigerova/Unsplash
Kering has launched an environmental calculator that will serve as the backbone of a new fashion-design curriculum at Parsons School of Design at The New School. Based on the French luxury conglomerate’s Environmental Profit & Loss methodology, which attaches a monetary figure to the ecological impact of a company’s business and supply-chain operations, the “My EP&L” app will help students in the “Kering x Parsons: EP&L” pilot program weigh the pros and cons of their creative decisions. As part of their collaboration, Kering will also offer modules designed to incorporate “practical lessons in sustainability” in the Parsons curriculum, the school said on Thursday. In three senior “Systems & Society Thesis” sections and two “Materiality Thesis” sections, students will have the opportunity to study the EP&L process, compare materials, and discern the ways sourcing and manufacturing choices can influence a product’s carbon footprint.
BETTER DESIGNING THROUGH TECHNOLOGY
The “My EP&L” app, which is available as a free download, whether you’re enrolled at Parsons or not, provides an at-a-glance way to visualize a typical product’s impact at various points in its life cycle.
After selecting one of four items—a jacket, a shoe, a handbag, and a ring—app users can toggle through a multitude of options, from type of raw material (cashmere, wool, organic cotton, leather) to manufacturing origin.
The “My EP&L” app provides an at-a-glance way to visualize a typical product’s impact at various points in its life cycle.
The app then analyzes the cumulative effect of more than 5,000 indicators, including carbon emissions, water use, water and air pollution, waste production, and land-use changes, to calculate the product’s final impact.
As a comparative tool, “My EP&L” allows users to determine how so-called “better” decisions can result in more-sustainable designs.
The app shows that bag composed of French leather, lined with Chinese silk, and decked out in brass hardware from Chile, for instance, “costs” €4.40 less than a similar version made out of American leather, lined with Chinese linen, and given hardware derived from Chinese bamboo. That’s an environmental savings of 26 percent.
“’My EP&L’ illustrates the power of an Environmental Profit and Loss analysis and will assist fashion designers to easily calculate better options in real time in order to embed sustainability into their products at the very beginning of the design phase,” Marie-Claire Daveu, chief sustainability officer and head of international institutional affairs at Kering, said in a statement “As part of our ongoing commitment to advocate the importance of sustainability with the next generation entering our industry, we are excited to expand our Parsons collaboration with a view to sharing ‘My EP&L’ with further educational institutions following the pilot.”
Burak Cakmak, dean of fashion at Parsons, concurred. “Sustainability education is vital for our students, and with Kering’s help, Parsons will be educating the next generation of fashion industry leaders who can create powerful change,” he said.
+ My EP&L at Google Play and iTunes
Londoners, and those visiting the British capital, can check into the coziest AirBnb this season during London for Wool Week! The Campaign of Wool is taking over a rentable house for the week, to create the first ever WoolBnB. Guests can snuggle in all of the wool-clad rooms, which will be decked out in wool pillows, duvets, mattresses and one-of-a-kind wooly art!
Factories in Turkey are employing Syrian refugee children as young as 10 to make clothes for the British high street, an undercover investigation by BBC’s Panorama has found. Broadcast Monday evening, the news program described the “very picture of Dickensian misery” as reporter Darragh MacIntyre described refugees earning barely more than a dollar an hour—well below the Turkish minimum wage—stitching, ironing, and folding garments for Marks & Spencer and the online retailer ASOS. Adult refugees were discovered working 12-hour days in a factory distressing jeans for Mango and Zara without adequate protection from the often toxic chemicals they were using. One of the factory workers told Panorama that refugees were so poorly treated that “if anything happens to a Syrian, they will throw him away like a piece of cloth.”
Photo by Alice Achterhof/Unsplash
A new study has found that many cosmetics labeled as “organic” may also carry unsafe toxins. The Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep database is an analysis of 5,000 personal care products, grading each for its safety for consumers to use as a resource. A recent study by EWG found that cosmetics with an “organic” label may not be what consumers think- a whopping 20 percent of the products that use the word “organic” in their name contain harmful ingredients that score low evaluations on Skin Deep.
TO ENTER THIS FABULOUS GIVEAWAY1. SIGN UP FOR THE ECOUTERRE NEWSLETTER. (This is important because we'll be announcing our winner there.) 2. LEAVE A COMMENT BY OCTOBER 25 and tell us what you look for in a bag. Although it doesn't hurt to get fancy, we'll be picking a winner at random. Note: Because all Freitag products are one-offs, the backpack that the winner will receive may differ in color and markings from the bags featured here.
A new report from a London-based anti-poverty group has cast doubt on Uniqlo’s corporate-social-responsibility claims of “making the world a better place.” In This Way to Utopia, published Thursday, War on Want called out the Japanese apparel chain for driving a “race to the bottom” by working with supplier factories in China characterized by precarious working conditions, excessive overtime, pittance wages, and oppressive management.
According to a series of undercover investigations War on Want’s partner, Hong Kong’s Students and Scholars against Corporate Misbehaviour, or SACOM, at least four of Uniqlo’s so-called “ethical” factories consistently defied Chinese labor law and the retailer’s own code of conduct.
Proud to be one of America’s “nasty women”? Have we got a shirt for you. Inspired by last night’s presidential debate, Bob Bland, CEO of Manufacture NY, has launched a line of T-shirts and tote bags that transform one man’s epithet into a rallying cry. Made in the United States, each $25 topper benefits Planned Parenthood and its ongoing battle for reproductive rights. And don’t worry, gents, we haven’t forgotten about you. Tell the world what a “bad hombre” you are as you make your way to the voting booth in the complementary tee. Or donate directly to one of these equally excellent organizations for women and girls.
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